Tube Uniformity

Every morning between 7 and 9 AM, the London Underground transforms into a moving show of practicality. Among the sea of black overcoats and hurried footsteps, one pattern stands out: the commuter bag of choice. I believe its time for a refresh.

The Colour of Choice: London’s Love Affair with Black

The colour of choice amongst commuting Londoners is undeniably black. Black shoes, black overcoats—it’s an unspoken uniform. In some inconceivable way, the black jacket is both comforting and reassuring, a staple that requires no thought yet always looks appropriate. The outerwear of choice tends to fall into three categories: trench coats, wool overcoats, or Mac jackets.

Interestingly, these choices nod towards a military influence in modern workwear. The trench coat, in particular, originates from wartime army clothing, designed for both function and form. While this topic deserves a deeper dive in its own right, it’s worth noting how much of today’s commuter wardrobe is rooted in military history—another example of how practicality and tradition shape style.

Yet while all of this is true, black’s practicality, its timelessness, can also feel bleak and monotonous. The sea of dark coats during the morning rush begins to blur, stripping individuality from the commute. A pop of colour, a daring silhouette, even a statement accessory could go a long way in reinjecting some spirit into London’s everyday style. In a city once hailed as a fashion capital, the energy now feels more uniform than expressive. If not a shift in colour, perhaps it’s time for a change in shape —bring back the structured shoulders, the dramatic tailoring, the playful proportions. Styling doesn’t necessarily have to be loud, but it shouldn’t be forgettable.

The Rise (and Stagnation) of the Le Pliage Bag

If you’ve taken the Tube during rush hour, you’ve seen it—the Longchamp Le Pliage bag in all its colour variations. Designed in 1993, its very name, Le Pliage, translates from French as "to fold," a nod to its packable, space-saving design. In a city where storage is a luxury, its convenience is undeniable. I own one myself. It’s lightweight, waterproof, and fits seamlessly into the commuter lifestyle. But I think its use is becoming boring and uninspiring.

Despite the range of colours, the styling remains monotonous, and its ubiquity has drained it of any personality. There’s a difference between a stylish uniform and a tired one—this feels like the latter. The bag also struggles under the weight of daily essentials, losing its shape and structure much like exhausted commuters navigating rush-hour crowds. A design refresh or a new way of styling this classic feels long overdue. That said, it was refreshing to see Kendall Jenner photographed carrying a mini version of Le Pliage Cuir (the original bag’s all-leather sibling), proving that there is potential for evolution within the Longchamp family. Despite my criticisms towards Longchamp, I am enjoying the Le Pliage poaches in casual wear, used as a clutch or crossbodies..

The Goyard Tote Epidemic

A similar fate has befallen another status bag: the Goyard tote. Except, more often than not, the ones spotted in the wild aren’t the real deal. The proliferation of counterfeits is diluting the exclusivity and craftsmanship Goyard is known for.

The most common sighting? The green Goyard Saint Louis tote, which feels almost commonplace. The wave of fakes isn’t just an aesthetic issue; it’s cheapening the brand’s image. If everyone has it (or at least a version of it), where’s the allure? Despite the hefty price point and hype on social media, the Goyard bag is impractical. The bag does not have compartments, the straps feel flimsy and uncomfortable relative to Longchamp’s bags, and there have been significant reports of the Goyard tote melting and transferring when exposed to heat. The commuter bag landscape is in desperate need of fresh, affordable alternatives that don’t fall into overexposure or imitation.

A Student-Friendly Alternative? The Marc Jacobs Tote Bag

One bag that’s been quietly rising in popularity, particularly among students, is the Marc Jacobs Tote Bag. Retailing at a more accessible price (with both canvas and leather options), it offers structure, versatility, and individuality without feeling like a copy-paste trend.

Despite its practicality, it hasn’t quite reached the same commuter-level saturation as the Le Pliage or Goyard tote. Perhaps it’s because its branding is bolder, making it a less subtle choice for office workers. But in terms of function and price, it’s an option worth considering.

The Post-COVID Shift in Workwear

There has been a noticeable shift in London’s workwear post-COVID. The once-rigid expectations of suits and traditional tailoring pioneered in Savile Row and East London’s tailoring scene have given way to a more relaxed and non-conformist approach to office dressing. Formal wear isn’t disappearing entirely, but the commuter look now leans towards smart-casual practicality rather than strict formality. The sea of black trench coats contrasts with increasingly relaxed silhouettes on the Tube reflects this shift—workers no longer feel bound to stiff, corporate dress codes, opting instead for comfort.

The Need for Change

The daily fashion of London’s commuters is filled with practicality but lacks innovation. While there’s nothing wrong with staple pieces, the way they’re styled (or rather, not styled) has led to a cycle of uniformity without intent. Commuters need bag and practical fashion that reflect both their individuality and their needs—functional yet fresh.

So, what’s next for the work bag trend? It’s time for an evolution.